Thursday 30 July 2009

Commuting by train (Bogor-Jakarta)

In a train on the way back to Bogor from Jakarta yesterday, a lady with a two years old child came aboard at Gambir station. All the seats were occupied. Two ladies next to me advised her to go to the corner since there was an army who might gave up his seat for her and the baby. Out of their expectation. The army was frozen on his seat. Then they said “Oh no. Let’s close our eyes. Pretending we were sleeping”.

Well, this kind of conversation is something normal in a train between Bogor to Jakarta. Once people get their seats, they will suddenly fall asleep. Ignoring whoever standing in front of them. Whether an old lady, mother with a child, or someone standing with one leg, who cares ! Other way besides falling asleep is busy with cell phone. It was a time when my 75 years old mother was standing in front of 3 young guys who were busy sending messages with their cell phones. So busy till they did not notice an old lady was in front of them. Fortunately it was only a short trip. If it takes more than 30 minutes, I would punch the guys immediately. Back to the lady with a baby, luckily, not the army but other guy gave up his seat for her.

Contrasting to other countries, mostly in Europe, seats are prioritized for women and children. In Czech Republic, all young people are standing in the train. Leaving the seats empty with only old ladies and women with children. Plus me, off course, I’m an Indonesian. But still there are some disadvantages. During a trip in subway in London, two young ladies were having conversation. It was a bit loud since they were seating across to each other. Suddenly an old lady offered her seat to one of them. They were wondering why. She said “to stop you both making so much noise”. Then, no body moved and things returned to silence.

I’ve been taking trains in many countries. The most memorable one was on my trip from Czech Republic to Republic of Slovakia. It was a night train. The train conductor checked our tickets at about 2 AM. Not alone, an army with a big gun was standing behind him. So you could imagine, when you were still a half sleeping, opening the door and seeing a police and an army with a big gun in front of you, saying “ticket and passport please !”. I thought I was dreaming in a middle of World War I. But my dreaming had not finished yet. In Kochitzte, Slovakia, I took a cup of coffee to open up my eyes in dark chilly morning. When I paid the coffee, leaving my bag behind, in less than 2 minutes, my big wallet with passport and money was gone stolen by the gypsies. Oh no ! Fortunately, I have a very good friend, Ema, who was taking care of me. She was the one who paid for everything and took me to Indonesian embassy to get a document functioning as my passport. Thank you Ema. Some day I will visit you again and that time, I’ll be the one who pay for everything.

What about train from Bogor to Jakarta ? There are about 15 million people live in Jakarta and its sub urban area. Most people live in the sub urban area and Bogor as the housing price is much cheaper than Jakarta. That makes about 116 million people in a year commuting by train to go to Jakarta (Kompas.com). It is nothing compare to London subway where about 1 billion people a year using the service (wikipedia). But off course, the situation is also different.

London subway began to operate in 1863, during the era of the Queen Victoria. The first underground railway system in the world. As time goes by, they make more and more underground tunnels at different level of depth. If you comprehend termite’s nest, it looks like that. So during the day, people in London are termites, moving from one point to an other, using underground tunnels.

When in London, public transportation service is built for 100 years ahead vision. In Jakarta, probably there is no vision at all. At the moment, there are about 600 000 vehicles get into Jakarta daily, where only 2% are public transportation and 98% the rest are private cars (Kompas.com). No wonder why people in Jakarta prefer to take breakfast in their cars, due to the traffic jam. Then train becomes very important. No traffic light, no traffic jam, no one brave enough fighting in front of a moving train, so the train suppose to make our time more efficient. I said suppose to, because in reality it does not work like that. Unreliable departing time, regular broken machine, regular trouble on electricity, and even some people stole the bolt of railway that halt the train journey. If that happens, all we can do just wait till things are better again. Or take other alternative transportation such as bus.

But the inconveniences of the train is not only from the train itself. The passengers also play a big part of it. Pickpockets are something normal especially in the early time of the month when people just get their salary in cash. When people get off from the train and from the other side, people push in to come aboard, that’s when the pickpocket operates. But this creates solidarity amongst passengers. Once someone lost their wallet, some body will offer her/him some money for bus fare or a lift in his/her car/motorcycle at least till the pickpocket victim arrive safely at home. This happened to my little sister. The pickpocket also slices off women’s bag to take the wallet inside. One time I was a victim of pickpockets who operate with their hypnotizing skill. I felt like I just woke up from my sleep when the train hit the light after getting through a dark tunnel (under a bridge). Then I realized that my wallet was not in place. But there is a passenger’s behaviour that annoying me so much. Some guys like to do “petting” to other women passengers. When the train is full of passengers, very hard to move, then suddenly somebody rub his tool against me. Ouch, so disgusting !!

I’m taking train from Bogor to Jakarta since 1982, when I was first enrolled in Bogor Agricultural University. Though I rent a room in Bogor, I went home every week end. Until one time, I fell down from the train when I get off in Bogor. That accident made me unconscious. I was lucky that the best friend of my boy friend at that time was in the train as well. He organized people to carry me until I arrived at my rented room. If you familiar with the name of Drajat A. Wibowo, a famous economist who is the member of Indonesian house representative at the moment, that is the guy who helped me. I tell you a secret. In the university, he liked to study during the train’s trip. In one day he could take several train’s trips only for studying. But it made him graduated with “cum laude”.

But the train services is getting better now. There are more express trains “Pakuan” with air conditioner. There are also economic scale trains with air conditioners. People with children prefer the take this one. Though mostly are second hand trains from Japan – the price is one tenth compare to a new train - there are more trains available at the moment to address the increase of passengers each year. When the train make improvement, hope there would also improvement of passengers behaviour.

Friday 17 July 2009

Home sweet home


As I mentioned before I moved house to another town. It is in Bogor, south part of Jakarta. The house is quite small but this is my own. I bought it in 2002 – paid under 10 year instalment basis - and I designed the house as I live by myself. Now, my sister and my mother joined me. My sister is OK but my mother does not like the design. I like green colour. I have green bathroom, green telephone, green calendar. But my mother likes blue, so she ordered blue curtain. Well, it’s OK as the curtain makes my house full of colour. My mother does not like my bathroom with showers. She likes the one with a tank of water. She said “if we keep the water tank full of water so do our wallet with money”. Hmm….perhaps. She also does not like my kitchen. Look at the picture. My mother hammered the kitchen. She hates it !.

What should I say ? I said nothing. Let me tell you why. Indonesian life expectancy is 70 to 72.5 years old. When you have a 75 years old mother, will you argue with her ? “No way”. I even feel happy if she would like to eat something. Because if she is eating, this means she is still alive. The rests are just bonus for me !! We need our mother because there is so much wisdom she has been teaching us. My mother keeps telling us that we have to be an honest person. Since if we keep our honesty, whatever difficult our situation is, God will always give his hand to us. I totally agree with this because it is not only conceptually God gives his hand, but I did literally see God’s hand.

It happened when I was in Edinburgh, UK when I was doing my MSc study. One night I felt so hurt on my chest. It was so hurt and I had difficulty to breath. I thought I was going to die. Then I saw my Koran on the table. I wanted to reach it. But I could not move. And I screamed “God, help me!”. You know what. I suddenly saw a very very big big hand grabbed the Koran from my table and put it on my chest. Soon after, I felt so relieved. When I opened my eyes, the Koran was still on the table. But I did believe what I saw and I remembered my mother. She said “keep being honest and God’s hand will help you”. Yes mother, I promise !.

Back to my house. I understood why my mother renovates the kitchen. In the house, there is only one bedroom. My mother sleeps there with my sister. And I ? I sleep with bicycle and all the kitchen stuff. Moving the kitchen means giving me more room to sleep. Thanks Mom, I love you !!.

Though I have a small house but I feel so grateful as I still have a place to stay. I saw many people have to rent houses that make them move often from one to another. There are also unfortunate homeless people on the street. I think everyone needs a house as home to live. Then I found out I was totally wrong. Not everyone in this world needs a house to live. My friend, Ghofur (2008) did an anthropological research on people who live in “handcart” in Jakarta. They use the cart not only for collecting materials from garbage – materials that can be sold such as cartons, plastic, bottles, etc - but they also use it as “a house”. They sit in it, eat in it, sleep in it and even make love in it. Some of his respondents said that renting a house is too expensive but most of them said that they prefer to live in cart as it gives them so much freedom.

We might think that living in a cart is a free of charge living. Ghofur found it is not, not at all. They still have to pay. If they do not want to be kicked off from the street, they have to pay to the security people, legal or illegally. If they want to keep the cart close to the good source of garbage, they have to pay to the local administrative staff in the neighbourhood, legal or illegally. Live on the street is such a wild and dangerous life. But for the sake of “freedom”, they are happy to do it.

Monday 13 July 2009

High school reunion


It has been 27 years since I graduated from high school. Yesterday on 12th July, we had our high school reunion. About 100 people came. Some of them have similar faces in high school that I still remember. Let’s say about 50% of them. And the remaining, I totally forgot. They said “Hi Retno, do you remember me ?” and I said “Ups, I don’t”. Then s/he tried to figure out things that can make me remember again. In my opinion, I don’t really care about those memories. The most important thing is, they are my high school friends and we will remain as friends from now on.

When I arrived I met a woman going up to the same direction to the 7th floor of the Perumnas building. Not really remember her, until I recognized her lips. No one in this world has lips like that. This must be Irene !. I missed her so much. We were in the same group for a 60 km marching competition from Bogor to Jakarta and we won the trophy !. We were in a local girl magazine that time, in 1981. All the girls in the group are my best friends during high school.

At the reunion I met Agus, my classmate during my first grade in high school. At that time, I liked him and I think he liked me too :). One time, he drove me home with his motorcycle. I was so excited and I did something stupid on the way home. Normally, a girly way of sitting on motorcycle is facing to the left side of the driver. But I was sitting facing to other direction. I was facing to the right side !! On the traffic light, I was wondering why the girl in front of me was facing me. Why everyone was looking at me ? Agus – he is a very quite guy – say nothing as well. What an embarrassing memory. When I met Agus again, we were laughing together remembering the moment.

In Indonesia, during high school we have to share a table with other student. In the reunion, I met Evy - my shared table friend during the first grade – and Ningsih – my shared table friend during the third grade. All of us are chatty women and we all were clever students. I still regularly meet Ningsih for having lunch together when we have time. But I lost contact with Evy after high school graduation. I was so excited finding her name on face book and soon we made appointment to have lunch together. I’m still loosing my shared table friend during the second grade -Henny. I wish I can find her soon.

On the way back home, Ari gave me and Umar a lift in his car. I and Umar were heading to the closest train station. The last time I met Ari was during his wedding party. I used to see him also jogging at Senayan. It was 4 years ago. Time passed so fast ! Umar is a good friend of mine during high school. He is a disable person. One of his legs is shorter than the other. Sometime, when I walked with him I would imitated his walking style, I walked as I have one leg shorter that the others !. But he is very smart and he is a dentist now. We had drink together and had a small chat before taking a train at Kalibata train station. We’re going to have another high school reunion next month. Another good time since during reunion we would act as we were teenagers again.

My beloved cats

4th of July was a good day for us, I and my sister since Moche - our lost cat who been gone for 2 weeks returned back home. We both cried for happiness. 2 weeks a go we took our 3 cats into our new home in an other town 60 km from our hometown. They are :
1) Ciput - a 20 years old lady. She almost lost her fur for a half of her body. Her spirit to stay alive is protecting her only son, Oneng.
2) Moche - Ciput's sister, about 17 years old. She lost all of her teeth. A small and fat cat. An emotional cat, she might just scratch you with no reason when I pass her.
3) Oneng - an one year cute and lovely kitten. He likes to play with me by running around the house. He is too small compare to other cats.

On the second night at the new home, I let those 3 cats left the house for their big job. 2 returned home and Moche never came back. I felt so bad as I let her go and she is new in the neighbourhood. We were afraid that she might returned to our old home. It happened to our previous cat. Comeng - a naughty guy liked to pee everywhere including into a bowl of soup of our neighbour. The angry neighbour dumped him far away. 2 weeks later he came home, looked very sick and he died a day after. My mother said - he went home for his last day and he wanted to be surrounded by people who loved him.

We were very worry since Moche has no teeth at all. How can she eat ? She is very old. How can she fight back to wild cats who attack her ? Normally we are the ones who help her. Thanks God she decided to return back to our new home. She might get confused in the middle of her journey. What a smart cat, decided to return back before things were getting worst.

Indonesia’s presidential public election

On 8th July, we were in rush this morning to go to my previous home as we were going to give our votes for this year presidential election. We have three pair of candidates, Megawati-Prabowo as no. 1, Bambang Yudhoyono-Budiono as no. 2 and the last one Jusuf Kalla-Wiranto as no. 3. This presidential election is much easier than the election for the members of house representative in May. In the previous one we had 4 different levels of house representatives, from 44 parties and each party had about 0 to 15 people that we had to choose. In that election, each paper that we had to give our mark was so huge. It took time to scan the 44 parties plus small alphabets of names of the candidates. Has not mentioned how some people sang “twinkle-twinkle little stars” to choose the party randomly.

With some problems occurred including the inaccuracy of DPT (list of people who give votes), the first step of public election was done. What Indonesia !! Some people who did not get enough votes to be elected had psychological problem. In an other word they became mad !. Some of them went to hospitals for mental illness. Some went to the “traditional medicine man”. Some of them even committed suicide. Why ? Because they had spent so much money to make people vote for them. For rich people things were not that bad but some of them were drawn in a huge debt. A gift considered as a donation previously, suddenly being withdrawn as there was not enough votes given by the people who received the gift. There was also a guy who closed down the main road into his own village, as he was so disappointed to the villagers for not electing him. People just lose their mind !

Today we have to choose our president. All candidates have been through a tiring campaign for a month. From indoor campaign, outdoor campaign, all giant posters along the roads, TV advertisements, debates on TV (This is a new one. We never had it before). Every candidate tried to reach the lowest level people in our society. That’s why traditional markets became favorite sites to be visited. The no. 1 tried to prove that they pro to common people. They signed so many agreements with different groups of communities. And ready to be sued if they can not fulfill their promises. No 2 emphasized the personal attraction of SBY (at the moment he is still our president). How good looking he is (I totally disagree with this!), how he is a good father, a very polite guy, a smart guy with PhD title on his name. No 3 tried to prove that they are hard workers. And they will make Indonesia capable to develop independently. This afternoon, every TV channel does what we call a quick count. A small survey that will picture what we are going to have as the result. No 2, so far, wins. In my opinion, people just lose their mind !

Why do I say this ? I saw from the presidential debates, other candidates gave a better statements and answers than no. 2. More rational and able to cover an abstract system with real examples on the field. Everyone knew that the vice president at the moment who did more work than he is – no 3 candidate is the vice president. The president appears so often on TV in many ceremonial events. If you have miss universe or Indonesian idols, our president appears more often than them. The way he presents himself is not genuine. This is what we call “jaim” – he controls the way he speaks, the way he moves, to controlling his image as a nice, polite, and a good looking guy. Gosh, I got stomach problem every time I see him. But in fact, people are hypnotized by this. Have not mentioning how many promises he gave during the presidential election in 2004 that have not been fulfilled yet. I got headache now !

Seeing what happened during the election of house representatives and now the presidential election, it is obvious that most of Indonesian people are communities who are not rational enough. I do not say irrational ! This is a different issue !. Without detail calculation of possibility to be elected, people just put their names in for the election of house representative. No wonder they become mad after losing the election. People also elect president who has a better appearance, not because he has better programs and actions. Some Indonesians are still the traditional voters, means they prefer to have a male president than a lady one. No. 1 candidate is a lady. I had a conversation with a friend in Bogor mentioning that his big family will never elect a woman as president because in Moslem world there is no woman leader. Indonesian majority is Moslem. I said “no way”. There are too many examples that women are good leaders, but still, this is their view. I’m wondering if one of their daughters goes for the election, I’m sure they will change their mind.

All Quick counts say no 2 win. He already gave his statement – though I think this is too early and too confident because it requires formal statement from appointed body who runs the election, mentioning that he is the winner. I frankly prefer other candidates for a better Indonesia. I don’t think he will win the election that easily. There are many problems occurred during the presidential election such as the DPT problem, some people vote more than once, etc. We’ll see how other candidates do about this. Tonight the no. 2 candidate will be interviewed in many TV channels. I might spend time just reading my books and prepare some stomach medicine if I need it.